Disclaimer : We are the kind of travellers or rather I would prefer the term drifters who like to wander about. The count of places covered does not matter to us. We like to go slow absorb the flavour and culture of the places we visit . We like to replay history in out minds. We like being close to nature .
There are some places where time stands still for us...and at those places we too like to stand still and just enjoy the beauty of those places.
Goa - The day before.
On the 7th of May 2010 12:01 AM, a time when our house is generally peaceful. There was a flurry of activity, it looked like some primitive ritual from the dark ages with two people gesturing wildly, arms flaying about and strange noises made in front of a black box emitting strange light and sounds.
It was me and my better half having an animated discussion , with the laptop being the object of attention. Ticket prices, modes of transport and budget Hotels were being thrown about. New theories were presented, previous vacations referred to and individual knowledge was being tested and challenged. The above was the result of a last minute decision to go to Goa for the weekend. Finally after much discussion bus tickets were booked to Goa for a 21:15 departure from Chembur, our preferred mode of travel (train) not being available we opted for the Volvo's. We had short listed a few hotels but couldn't decide on any. Finally we slept at around 2:00 AM.
In the morning after an early rise. The few bare essentials were flung into our rucksacks. The camera batteries charged. We left for our respective offices.
The day in office went by in a haze. Friday deliverables were forgotten. Some additional research on the hotels were done, for which the outcome was that we decided to not book online, since it being an off-season we would get an hotel room quite easily. We did call up a couple of places and were assured of the same. Further time in office was spent taking a couple of prints from google maps.
Reaching Goa
We left Powai at 6.30 PM and hired an auto to take us to Chembur.
Chembur - after a couple of wrong turns we reached Yogi Hotel at Chembur, which is the major boarding point for all private buses plying to myriad destinations. There was a huge crowd of people at the bus stop waiting for buses which were just not turning up.
We grabbed a quick dinner at Lamba's opposite to the bus stand and began our wait. Our promised time of 9.15 PM came and went by without the bus arriving. At last at 10.35 PM the bus arrived and we were on our way to Goa.
Exploring Goa
We reached Panjim, Goa at 11:20 AM. We alighted at the Kadamba (Goa Government) bus station. This was the first major landmark in our Google maps. Thus assured full of energy and enthusiasm we set out to discover the land of beaches.
Our first target was the Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC). So with our maps in hand and picturing ourselves as the new age explorers we set out in our quest of the GTDC office. Following the Google Map print outs was a piece of cake for us or so we thought. So taking in the sights and sounds of Panjim, crossing pretty little bridges and admiring the beautiful old style shops and cottages , occasionally being jarred by the glass and concrete modern monstrosities that are now appearing; we were fast closing in onto our target.
After a couple of wrong turns we discovered quite early in our sojourn that Goa in May is really HOT and HUMID. This forced us to switch to plan B and we resorted to the time tested method of asking for directions. We finally reached GTDC. The print outs were quietly pocketed.
Quest for the elusive cycle rental shop.
We had decided to bicycle about Goa. Our enquiry at GTDC was met with reactions ranging from amazement, astonishment, astoundment, bewilderment to ridicule. However our resolve was strong we ditched the GTDC people and continued in our search for what was proving to be an elusive "Bicycle Rental Shop".
We ventured further into Panjim to find a bicycle rental shop. The weather necessitated an additional budgetary outlay towards 2 caps. The better half selects two commando style caps in all their camouflaged revelry.
Another enquiry at the cap shop, still results in a negative response. The shop keeper offers bikes he has for rent.We exit the shop in our soldier caps our resolves strengthened. "Mushkil Waqt Commando Sakt".
Next encounter is with a couple of touts trying to rent of their bikes or offering their chauffeured bike services. Inspite of all the ridicule we faced I again ask them about bicycle rentals. The response is the now familiar disbelieving grin, "I mean bicycles in this age and day in India a global superpower." It all seemed like it was because of people like us that India's status as a global superpower was being undermined. However there was a twist they did mention availability of bicycle rentals near National Cinema Panjim and offered us to take us for Rs.40 on their bikes. We opted to an auto which took us there for Rs.50. (We later realized we were quite close to that place and we could have walked down). It is not far from the Kadamba bus stand.
Renting the bicycle
The first shop we went had only 1 cycle for rent. The next one we went had the bicycles but no ladies cycles and partner needed a ladies cycle (without the horizontal cross bar) as she was getting on a bike after a long time. Luckily there was another shop nearby which had just 2 cycles left.
The cycles looked ancient one the classic Atlas Goldline type you would see on Indian roads which the milkmen use to carry their milk cans. The other the ladies cycle whose handle had been welded and was off-center. The front brakes on the ladies cycle just had two screws with the brake pads completely worn out.
Our polite enquiries for any alternatives resulted in the old battle worn owner launching into a tirade against students who ran off with the bicycles. The folks there though were trusting folks who did not take any deposit just copies of our identification and our phone numbers. The rent they charge for a day was 60 Rs which was probably more than what the cycles cost.
Ride to Miramar
After a few tentative pedals, none of which looked reassuring from behind, partner was wobbling along on the streets of Goa. A closer inspection of the bi-cycle revealed that the handle probably broken in the days bygone had been welded off-center making it difficult to ride in a straight line.
It resulted in me having to carry all the load, at least the Atlas Goldline could live up to its name.
And we set off in the direction of Miramar in the hot sun. The ride was as pleasant as it could be in the HOT sun. My jeans were soaked with sweat and further weighed me down. Still the freedom that cycling provides and feeling the wind against my face ,far out weighed everything else, even the 3 bags that I was now carrying.
Much of the ride is along the Mandovi river and some along the sea.
We picked up tickets for the evening River Boat cruise which are available at the GTDC's Miramar Residency. We crossed the Goa science center on the way. After a distress call to the receptionist at the Hotel Miramar, to pinpoint its location we reached Hotel Miramar.
By now we were used to the looks passersby were giving us, so the arched eye brows of the receptionist was like water of the proverbial duck's back. We even asked her if it was OK to park our cycles there. (As if someone would steal our rusted beauties.)
The Hotel and Miramar Beach
The hotel is decent enough, basic in its amenities, but then we weren't planning to stay in the room for long. We parked our bags in the room changed into our shorts and dashed out to the beach asking the hotel people to pack our lunch for us.
That's right no wasting time for us. The beach while not one of the best beaches of Goa was good enough for us. The water was warm and inviting, not that we needed any invitation. A couple of hours in the water in the hot afternoon sun. (It must have been 13:30 when we went to the beach)Splashing about enjoying the waves, we were lucky enough to see some flying fish. We also saw an eagle swoop down to catch one.Which reminded us that we had not yet had lunch.
We had ordered
- 1 Miramar special prawn curry and rice.
- 1 Fish fingers
So we reluctantly dragged ourselves back to the hotel along with a lot of sand. We collected our lunch , had a cool refreshing bath and settled down to devour the food.
The quantity we got was enormous. Inspite of all the physical activity described above the two of us could not finish the rice and curry. We did finish the huge tiger prawns and the fish though. Sea food throughout our stay was yummy wherever we went.
River Cruise
A short nap and we were pedalling back for the river cruise. The crowd and traffic had increased making it more difficult for my partner to navigate . We were hard pressed for time, the goan heat and cuisine had extended our short nap a bit. By now the hard , cracked and crooked plastic seats of our bicycles were starting to make hteir prescence felt.
The cruise we were taking was named "Santa Monica". We made it in time grabbed out seats. The cruise was pleasant we were treated to some dances depicting the local culture as we floated down the river.
If you are interested in watching the dances you can grab a seat close to the stage. We grabbed one at the front of the boat behind the stage.
After the cruise we roamed about a bit on foot. We debated about buying the famous Goa Cashew and wine and due to my insistence pushed it of for the next day. (Who's going to carry all that load around). We mounted our cycles and off we were. Dinner was a quiet affair at our hotel and we hit the sack.
Dona Paula
The next day was an early start and we pedalled our way to "Dona Paula". Early morning was nice just us, some dogs frolicking about and a lone fisherman.
There are lots of stories associated to Dona Paula which can be found on the Internet. You get a nice view of the sea.
Saw some people canoeing there. After spending some nice moments we were off back to the hotel.
Parked our cycles and headed for another dip in the sea.
...and the rest
The receptionist widened her eyes on our return mentioned something about us being crazy, going to the beach so early in the morning , all in good fun. We checked out from the hotel. Before leaving had some omelet pav and bhurji pav for breakfast. The cycles were returned and we headed to Margao to attend a family function.
Disaster strikes us in Margao We discover it being a Sunday all shops are closed there, so no cashews and no wine. We did mange to pick up some cashews at the bus stand though.
So finally at the end of 2 days we returned from Goa with lots of pleasant memories and two sore behinds.
